Body work/rust repair questions

"Big Bubba Ray" (eganward01) 09/29/2014 at 11:45 • Filed to: Bubba's Datsun

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(Semi long post) So my Datsun has a bit of rust. What do you expect for a 42 year old car? It's just surface rust (thankfully) and most of it will be easily fixed. I've been considering bodywork options recently as I compile a list of things I want to do to the car. Searching Craigslist earlier I came upon a pair of 240Z doors that are in great shape. No rust, come with interior/exterior trim, match the color of my car, and they're $400 OBO for the pair.

Current door status.

My car came out of the factory with a chrome trim piece running down the length of the car. The PO tore this off and it left some nasty holes in the body. My question is whether would it be cheaper to purchase these doors or to just go ahead and have the rust repair and bodywork done? I would give the seller hopefully $300-$350 for the doors and I'm thinking that would be far cheaper than to get all the bodywork done on the doors.

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If I can replace whole body panels for cheaper than getting bodywork done at a shop, I would much rather go that route. That way I can replace the panels myself and eventually have the whole car repainted, which is part of my long term plan. I've already decided to replace the front air splitter as it's pretty well rusted away, and I'm going to be replacing the hood with a carbon fiber one in the future.

Am I way off in my thinking that replacing body parts is cheaper than having bodywork done? If I'm spitting nonsense, let me know. I really don't know anything about bodywork so that's why I'm consulting you guys. Thanks in advance!

Twingo Tamer - About to descend into project car hell. > Big Bubba Ray 09/29/2014 at 11:50

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Getting the trim holes welded up then prep and paint could well cost more than the new doors.

crowmolly > Big Bubba Ray 09/29/2014 at 11:50

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$350 for both doors is cheaper than the bodywork that's involved, no question there.

I would be worried that "no rust" is bullshit. If there are door panels attached, pull them. Bring a flashlight and look down in the channel at the bottom. Also bring a magnet or spot rot to check for plastic body filler.

Bricks > Big Bubba Ray 09/29/2014 at 11:51

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thin plastic sheet (thicker than the housewrap shit) + fiberglass tape + bondo + hardware store paint = success!

Big Bubba Ray > crowmolly 09/29/2014 at 11:51

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Great, thanks for the info. The guy selling them owns a Datsun parts yard just outside of St. Louis and he's knows for doing some restorations on Zs. I think I'll take a look at the doors on Wednesday.

Big Bubba Ray > Twingo Tamer - About to descend into project car hell. 09/29/2014 at 11:52

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That's what I figured. Thanks!

Kate's Dirty Sister > Big Bubba Ray 09/29/2014 at 11:52

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Go on a Mazda forum, these guys are expert at rust.

http://forums.redflagdeals.com/mazda-3-2010-r…

http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/2014-ma…

Just Google it, plenty of good advices from Mazda folks

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > Big Bubba Ray 09/29/2014 at 11:52

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I have no idea what portion of the bodywork overall would be just the doors, and that rocker needs serious help that will in itself cost a good bit. That being said, that kind of seam rust in the bottom of a door is nearly always better to replace the door than try to fix.

Unless you're me and raising your sill height by 7" to strengthen a very compromised body for conversion to T-top and possibly amphibian ops, and shortening the doors accordingly. (My friends call me "Daft Bastard")

Jedidiah > Big Bubba Ray 09/29/2014 at 11:52

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Make sure the doors you're thinking about buying aren't covered in bondo.

The trim holes just need to be filled. The rust looks like a good bit of sheetmetal rot and will have to be cut out.

Personally, I wouldn't waste money on a carbon fibre hood. Hoods are not a structural part of the car so you don't need the rigidity and it is equivalent to a cheaper fiberglass hood for weight saving.

Bricks > Bricks 09/29/2014 at 11:53

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you should also remove the rusted parts with a dremel/cutting tool, not just bondo over it

Big Bubba Ray > Jedidiah 09/29/2014 at 11:55

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Crownmolly suggested bringing a magnet to make sure the doors aren't bondo'd at all, which I'm going to do.

The reason why I want a new hood is because the one I've got on there now is kinda trashed. Paint is destroyed and there are a bunch of dings and dents. I think it would be cheaper to just replace the hood rather than have all the body work done on it.

Jedidiah > Big Bubba Ray 09/29/2014 at 11:57

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I'd get a fiberglass one and save yourself even more money.

Big Bubba Ray > Jedidiah 09/29/2014 at 11:57

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I hadn't considered that, but I will now. Thanks!